How to train your baby Bird

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Title : How to train your baby Bird
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How to train your baby Bird

id = "post-body-2279672784792812571"> A bird is one of the most intelligent animals that you can choose as companion pet. That being the case, you want to make sure that your bird knows who is in charge (it would be), and knows how to behave in social situations respectable. Most parrots can never be fully tamed, always keeping a little wild side. But with consistency and patience, you and your bird can coexist happily on the same "nest".

Note, too, that some birds have a very long life, so the lessons taught now make the difference between living with a nice animal, semi- domesticated and the threat of unruly flight inaccessible. Here are 10 tips to start training

1. Prepare
Before starting any workout routine, be equipped with the right tools:

Used to treat, such as nuts or fruits, which are not part of regular meals of your bird
A resistant hanger or pin that can hold in your hand
a small, light-colored towel
a small stick size or pin
bitter apple spray to deter your bird from biting and chewing inappropriate objects (eg , curtains, furniture)
harness birds / strap (choose the size according to your type of bird)
pet carrier or cage travel (for when you need to travel)

2. Be realistic
Like you, your bird is an individual with its own personality and preferences. Some commands take longer to teach others, and may have tricks that your bird will just refuse to do, no matter how good the treatment is offered. And just as there are moments in the day when your mind is sharp, your bird will be times when it is more receptive to learning and handled.

Pay attention to the signals your bird and learn to recognize them. Your bird will feel more secure and confident when you know that has no need to be anxious. Keep sessions short and consistent training. Ten to fifteen minutes sessions spaced out two or three times a day should be enough.

3. Handling your bird
it is best to start with the basics. Getting comfortable being touched and held. Always be above the bird, never below, so that it remains in the master position. Place your finger against the bottom of your bird chest, just above his feet and encourage the bird of passage on the finger, with the commands "up" or "step forward". If he obeys, he rewards with words such as "good bird" or something similar. Be careful not to keep poultry or too low can try to gain higher ground up by the arm, but not the hold the bird too high, either. The correct level is high chest.

During the session, repeat the deepening of movements and verbal commands by having your bird "ladder" with his hands. With his free hand, place your finger on the lower breast of his bird above his feet and say, "Step Up". Do this several times, as each side is free, keep abreast of the interests of your bird and ending the session before the bird bored with it. As you are holding the bird, use one finger to lightly stroke and lift your toes. This accustom the bird to have their toes affected, making further cuts easier toe foot.

To train your bird to step back down on its perch, practice the same movements in reverse. Do not place the bird in the cage or on the hanger back, but turn the bird so it faces its hanger, and keep it just below the hanger so you have to get on the hanger, she thought you were going to use the words "down" or "reduce" this time. When the bird following this request, be sure to tell that it is a "good bird." It is also possible to follow up with a small gift after training sessions successfully.

If your bird will grow into a large parrot, however, does not allow it to sit on his shoulder. This will enforce a bad habit that will certainly lead to further injury. Birds, no matter how well trained, they bite when they are frightened, and never found a frightened bird near her face desired. Small birds tend to have smaller and less harmful snacks, but still take this into account.

4. It treats give
Treats should not be administered indiscriminately; that should be reserved for when the bird is doing something that should be encouraged. Although still young, start giving your bird is hand after he has gone hand or followed by a command. Just be careful how you hold it.

Treatment should continue with the tips of his fingers looking sideways instead of from the top and bottom. This is to protect fingers from accidental bites, because the bird can confuse the nail for a nut and bite into it. You can also keep treatment at open range.

5. Towel training
Getting your bird accustomed to a towel is essential as you will use towels for several situations, such as for grooming, medication administration, or management of an injury. You will need to include training towel in their regular training sessions.

Using a small hand towel white or light color (bright colors may alarm your bird) will allow your bird to step on the towel, maybe to eat a little tidbit that has been established in the towel. Once the bird is accustomed to the towel, take the towel and wrap the bird from behind, taking special care not to press against the bird with the towel or your hands chest. (Birds should be no restrictions on the chest, or can suffocate easily.) Hold sides of the only bird, so it can not wriggle out of reach, and with the other hand, place the middle finger and thumb on each side of his neck, with the index finger resting on top of the head to keep your head still.

6. Discourage biting and aggression
Note that often birds use their beaks to balance by placing their beaks on the object that are about to tread. Do not jump again waiting to be bitten or your bird can become nervous about stepping on his hand. Birds also like to try things, including the skin, so you may find it appears to snack, but really just touching your tongue to your skin. You will notice the difference.

In addition, always biting should be discouraged. But instead of yelling or punishing the bird, try to stay calm, and in the leading position at all times. Waiting times are not effective, either, as you can inadvertently train your bird to bite when you just want to be left alone. Instead, firmly say "no", place your hand, palm out, in front of your face and use a stop gesture.

On the other hand, if a bird behaves aggressively - flapping its wings, screaming, or rise high (to become big and scary displayed) - do not ignore or leave, but stay close and use words quiet until it has been established. You should never try to keep the bird when overexcited.

If your bird is put into a hold of the bite, try a deep breath to let go, and repeat the discouraging words. Needless to say, there will be no treatment after a session bite.

To prevent the bird from biting and chewing on furniture or curtains and windows covered, you can use a deterrent approved veterinary bitter apple spray called. Spray it on objects you want your bird to keep off the peak.

7. Use a stick to bite
Teaching your early bird, which is appropriate to bite and also gives you a lot of chewing can help keep your peak busy. You can use a wooden stick or similar small stick, placing him within the scope of the birds. When the club biting, praise for doing so. The bird quickly put to bite a stick is a good thing.

8. Screaming
There is really no easy way to deter scream. It's what birds, especially large birds. Having a cage cover or small blanket on hand to cover the cage often can solve the bird down. Music can also be a good distraction for a bird screaming. But never go to your bird when it cries, or learn that this is an effective way to get your attention.

9. Go outside and traveling
Birds like to go out, too, for obvious reasons, but even clipped wings are not the best protection. It is possible to train a bird to go out on a leash, but this should start early. The use of a suitable size harness, put the harness on the bird. Immediately after a successful achievement and trip out, give your bird a treat. That way, your bird will look forward to your visit.

Because most birds can learn simple commands, over time you will be able to get your bird ready for a trip out saying, "Do you want out?" The bird can even help you get your harness. For longer trips, meanwhile, a small cage that your bird can easily see outside is the best.

10. "Polly want a cracker?"
One of the best things about having a parrot is to teach "talk" (see 10 talking birds). The ability to speak your bird will depend on a number of things: the early start, the frequency of speech training and ability or temperament of the individual bird. Otherwise, the process is quite simple: repetition, repetition, repetition. If you want your bird to repeat a phrase or song, say or play again and again. Still, that's no guarantee that your bird the words you want to do it will be repeated.

A word of caution to speak: your bird can choose to repeat the words that are not desirable in mixed company. Be careful not to use bad words around a talking bird. Also, note that emotional language is especially attractive to birds. You may find that your bird laughs with you, cry with you, coughs and sneezes with you, and ... also going to use words you have heard arguments and movies he has seen. While this can be fun, your pastor or grandmother could not agree.


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